Crockers Henley Chefs Table
Nothing beats a chef’s table for an intimate foodie experience - and local hotspot Crockers Henley has two.
Launched as a boutique hotel and restaurant just before lockdown, the dedicated team have emerged stronger than ever.
On this occasion Henley Life is reviewing the Thames Table seven-course tasting menu with chef Alex Payne and his team serving up a twist on modern British flavours.
Alex has achieved much at only 30 years old. A successful stint as a MasterChef contestant, working at Heston Blumenthal’s The Hind’s Head, Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill and now head chef at award-winning Crockers Henley.
On arrival at the glamorous entrance on Market Place, we’re positioned at one of the 16 ringside seats ready for our first glimpse into the inner workings of modern gastronomy. Once settled, and at the sound of a bell, the theatre began.
Fine dining and cooking advice all rolled into one, we were encouraged by an easy-going Alex to ask questions along the way. His relaxed manner immediately put everyone at ease despite the growing anticipation ahead of service.
Taking the tasting experience from great to sensational with an exceptional wine pairing, wine expert Suzie poured an outstanding Hundred Hills sparkling wine to match the sublime welcome morsels of crab and avocado, truffle and Gruyère cheese.
Next up was a creamy Porthilly oyster, its texture transformed with a clever crumb topping.
Asked about the mind-blowing dressing, Alex explained that he had elevated a typical shallot vinegar dressing by using elderflower berries instead.
True to his passion for sourcing local, he’d picked the berries when they were in season during June around Henley. They were then pickled in seven jars ready to use on this very dish a few months later.
Suitably impressed, we continued with a delightful baby beetroot, horseradish and walnut dish.
A light and flavoursome partridge dish with English apricot, sweetcorn and tarragon was up next and was complemented well by an expressive Viognier.
Another showstopper was the line-caught Cornish cod plate, paired perfectly with a refreshing and balanced Albariño.
Absolutely no part of the fish was wasted - even the cod roe was used to season the dish and the bacon jam, pickled apple gel and fresh apple puree were delightful bursts of flavour on a dash of celeriac puree.
Journeying from each exciting dish to the next we also loved the venison.
Sika deer from Berkshire and black garlic paired perfectly with an elegant Carpineto Farnito Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana 2015.
Dessert followed with two more incredible dishes - the crumble paying homage to the English blackberry with pear and tonka bean vanilla (pictured).
This was followed by a decadent chocolate and mandarin desert, reminiscent of the humble Jaffa Cake but looking like nothing of the kind and all washed down with an aromatic Colheita 1995 by Barros Port Wine.
To wrap up an outstanding performance we enjoyed a quirky take on petit fours (pictured) with a cheeky taste challenge.
A great way to round off an evening of creativity, well-crafted plates and clever plays on texture and flavours.
Our evening at Crockers was a memorable experience with three approachable chefs who really care about their produce.
Always on the lookout for foodie ideas, I’m now compelled to buy some large pickling jars in anticipation of elderflower berry foraging around Henley next year.
Whether you are looking for an indulgent foodie catch-up or to celebrate a special occasion, the Crockers Henley Thames Table doesn’t disappoint.
And of course, it’s always great to experience first-hand exactly why Henley’s culinary credentials are making waves on the British cookery circuit. Exciting times.
Tasting menu starts at £100pp, lunch tasting menu is £45pp | Additional matched wines: Classic £50 and Premium £80 pp | Book in advance.
To stay in one of the seven boutique bedrooms, bed and breakfast and dinner at the chef’s table: £500 for two people | 20 Market Place, Henley-on-Thames, RG9 2AH, England. henley.crockersuk.com; 01491 5298370